I love this time of year, when hard work and horticultural perseverance is rewarded with so much orange and green. Thankfully, my obsession with Rachel Allen's crab and coconut soup has moved with me into autumnal mode, and I make it with diced pumpkin, rather than crab and prawns. I've also learned to up the chili factor but tone down the ginger. It's just such a happy-looking soup, with shards of red chili, strips of orange pumpkin flesh and the tiny scallion slivers floating on the surface. Thanks to Nigel Slater's winter recipe for giving me the notion.